At this point, you will want to make the following connections with your soldering iron.ġ. Electrical tape or self amalgamating tape can be used, but shrink sleeving should be used for peace of mind. Just reverse the polarity and will hear the click and see the shutter lower itself.įirst off, use shrink sleeving once you are done soldering to make sure the splice is protected. Here you can take your supply and apply 12VDC to the bottom pin and -12VDC to the top pin on the connector shown here:ĭon't worry about polarity, because if you have it reversed the solenoid won't move. The projectors in these housings are bi-xenon, meaning when a voltage signal is applied the shield inside the projector lowers to flood the road with light. It's not really necessary to verify since I have already done it, but if you want peace of mind then by all means go for it. Be sure to remove all bulbs as they are resistors which will trick you into thinking their is continuity at a false point. Take your multimeter and verify the pins on the connector go to the designated points. We are only interested in the defined pins and don't care for the extras since our harness won't have anything to connect them to. Refer to the following diagram of the pins for our housing. You want to determine which cable is positive and which is negative. Carefully strip the wire with your exacto knife so you can place a probe on the bare wires of each black cable. There you will see a pair of isolated black wires leading to the ballast connector. Take off back cover and unscrew the bottom torx (T-20) screws that would normally hold the ballast connector and slowly pull it off the bottom of the housing. Rewire the housing connector to make it compatible with the halogen harness. The downside is that the adaptive and auto-leveling feature won't be enabled. I have finally come up with a simple method to retrofit the LCI xenon headlights into a halogen equipped 128i without coding or the FRM3 module.
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